But for many riders taking on spectacular routes like the
Colorado Trail or the Arizona Trail for the first time, there’s something
unsettling about missing so much of the surrounding natural beauty by pushing
through the night, missing the opportunity to exchange stories with other
adventurers out on the trail, and spending consecutive days and nights pedaling
through the fog of exhaustion.
The more I ponder this, the more I’m reminded of the Mayan creation story in which the second race of humans were created from wood by Heart-of-Sky. They wandered through life, spiritless with empty minds and no respect for their creator. I’ve lost count of how many ultras I’ve raced, but in nearly every one, I’ve felt like one of these wooden people. Fortunately, I have yet to be smote like Heart-of-Sky eventually destroyed the wooden people.
Two weeks ago, I flew to Denver to ride the Colorado Trail.
The recent race weighed heavily on my mind as I packed my bikepacking gear and
planned my ride. Should I race the route and chase Jefe’s time? My form and
willingness to suffer were lacking after the Tour Divide and my recent Coconino
Loop push, so I knew full well that coming within even 8 hours of the new
record was highly unlikely. Should I just tour it? It sure sounded appealing,
but with a 7-day window to work with for the ride, I had to go somewhat fast.
Then I missed my flight out of Prescott, delaying the start of my ride and shortening
my window to 6 days. Undecided, I opted to roll the dice and see how I felt
after a day of riding.
I began climbing up Waterton Canyon under the cover of a
cloudy, moonless sky at 4 am. The ambient light of Denver quickly faded behind
me as a feeling of ensuing solitude filled me from within. The early climbs of
the trail passed by quickly, and the usually sunbaked burned areas west of the
South Platte River hid beneath wisps of fog. This burned off as the sun rose
higher, and I pushed on over Kenosha Pass toward Breckenridge. The trail was
deserted, and the only people I saw all afternoon was a family of hikers
wrapping up an overnight trip, their first with two young kids. We chatted for
a bit, with the shy 4-year-old curiously inquired about how I got over rocks
and why I did not have a tent. He hid behind his grandmother after getting an
answer. As I continued on, I tried to remember if I had ever seen a
three-generational family backpacking outing.
Night fell as I pushed my bike up over the Tenmile Range.
The stars shone nearly as brightly as the lights of towns far below me, and I
felt a combination of frightful isolation and exhaustion before beginning the
rough, rocky descent into the trees below. I curled up against a pine trunk on
the far side of the valley, catching a couple hours of sleep before resuming
pedaling.
The miles, however, did not come easily in the pre-dawn
still. My butt hurt. My knees hurt. My legs felt empty. And the fog had
returned, only this time it found its way into my head. I struggled to find the
beauty of the tundra riding between Searle and Kokomo Passes. The exciting
descent to the quiet valley below did little to get my blood flowing, and the
subsequent rolling singletrack through montane forests simply frustrated me. I
had descended into the emotional rollercoaster so often characterizing my
multi-day race experiences. The lows
broke through the bottom of what I used to think possible. The highs often
reached a seemingly insurmountable peak, only to be abruptly truncated by a
plunge off the precipitous heights. Day in and day out, I’ve battled through
these in the past, and frankly, I had no desire to repeat the cycle any longer.
Somewhere during that morning slog, as I inched toward
Leadville, I made the decision to back off and simply enjoy the ride. I pushed onward
through the afternoon to reach the post office in the next town to pick up my
box of tasty treats before closing, grabbed a motel, and slept for nearly ten
hours. I woke up excited to ride and feeling relatively fresh. The mental fog
had dissipated, my reflexes were no longer sluggish, and a curiosity to know
what was around the next bend or over the next climb replaced a dread of what
might lie beyond.
That’s what riding should be like. It’s why I started
riding, and it’s what keeps me riding.
And so I rode. I stopped and talked with every through hiker
I encountered. One older fellow was hiking from Denver to his 50th high school
reunion in Denver. Another older couple was hoping to cover 50 miles in 7 days
after not having backpacked in years. A solo woman from Breckenridge was
delighted to have someone to talk to for a bit after not having seen any other
hikers for several days. A couple from Fort Collins seemed to need someone with
whom to converse. And the angriest hiker I ever met needed someone to vent at
about how there should be signs warning hikers prior to long waterless
stretches. He also needed someone to pour some water in his empty bottle. But
the stories everyone had to share were delightful and memorable. You never know
what you’ll miss by simply riding past someone with a quick greeting and
nothing more.
When the sun set, I’d ride just far enough that I’d awaken
in the morning to a new view and new surroundings before finding a comfortable
place to sleep. A small fire would keep me warm as I enjoyed some food, and
then I’d drift off to sleep. And each morning, I’d wake up around dawn and be
moving just as the first glow of morning spread across my little piece of the
world.
For the last three days of my ride, I was in mostly unknown
territory, and it was absolutely spectacular. The brightly painted rocks of the
San Juan Mountains did not disappoint. The extended stretches of trail across
the alpine ridges were delightful. I’m not sure I’d ever tire of riding across
the sky. The plentiful hiking was easily tolerable. The afternoon thunderstorms
and showers parted as I approached, allowing my raincoat to remain buried at
the bottom of my pack all week. My eyes were open all day, never once drifting
closed due to the all too familiar insurmountable urge to stop and sleep. And
I’m surprised my face did not get tired from all the grinning.
I haven’t enjoyed a long ride that much in quite some time.
I drifted into Durango just after dark after 5.5 days of
riding. Much of my body was rather weary after another big effort, but rather
than mentally exhausted, I felt refreshed after my mountain sojourn. That’s
something I rarely have experienced in recent years. Perhaps I’m getting old in my young age,
or perhaps I’ve finally realized the full extent of what is sacrificed when my
competitive spirit takes ahold of the reins.












7 comments:
Beautiful post, Kurt. The CTR is indeed a great place to contemplate what's important in life. Seems like you had the best of both worlds--a reasonably speedy time, with enough left in the tank to enjoy one of the more stunning places in the world.
At the risk of sounding like a suck up, I feel compelled to comment and let you know how inspirational your stories are to me.I have never covered the distances that you have but I have more than once reflected on a post or posts that you have written at the point when I want to end the ride and I have been inspired to continue riding. This is a great post and I have now filed it in the hard drive under my helmet and I hope that one day I will be propelled to the distances and sights of your epic journeys, thanks for the stories!
Yeah buddy! I'm stoked you had such a great ride. All my scouting rides were heavily laden with conversation and the trails were CROWDED!! My wife made fun of me about being so social, but after starting the race, I did my best to limit my conversations. I did make it a point to make meet and greet everyone I passed and find out if they were doing okay.
You've got some great pics. I can't wait to go back there with my family and take shitloads of pictures.
While your post started out as a bit painful to read, I knew it was going to get better since I tracked you on the spot and with facebook/bikepacking.net. Your post helps balance out all those who speak to extensively about pain and suffering, falling off the back, and wanting to smash their head in with a rock. LOL.
Welcome, fellow tourist.
Been waiting for this to happen.
In a few years when you can enjoy (not just tolerate) waking up late and mid-day/mid-tour naps for no good reason, I think we're gonna have some good adventures together.
Cheers,
MC
Great write up. Enjoy following your adventures & thanks for sharing your experiences. Take care
sean
Great that you could "slack off" and enjoy the CTR even if your slacking pace is still hammering fast. Enjoying the beautiful scenery and great people makes the experience more than a finish time ever will.
Thank you so much for sharing these moments with us.
Your reflection are expressed in such a delicate and beautiful way.
Best, Zohar
Post a Comment